Region: Bannau Brycheiniog National Park – Central Beacons, Pen y Fan area, Brecon, Wales
Places To Stay: Base yourself in Brecon for cafes, restaurants, pubs and easy access to the Bannau Brycheiniog, or stay in Merthyr or Cardiff which are also very close, and if you want cafés, history and Talgarth Mill then Talgarth is a great location. Looking for more Welsh walks? Head to my ‘Wales Hiking Guides‘ page to see all regions and routes.
Staying overnight? Check my guide to the Best Places To Stay in the Brecon Beacons
Below are a few ideas for day tours around the Brecon Beacons / Black Mountains area. GetYourGuide makes it easy to book + see more here.
For a bigger selection of Brecon Beacons accommodation, Booking.com has plenty of cottages, lodges and hotels to browse.
This is one of the best circular mountain days in the whole of the Bannau Brycheiniog National Park. Starting quietly from the hidden Cwm Gwdi Car Park, the route climbs steadily onto the long ridge beneath Pen y Fan before looping around the dramatic glacial bowl of Cwm Llwch and dropping past the beautiful waters of Llyn Cwm Llwch.
What makes this walk special is the mix of landscapes and atmosphere. You get the huge escarpment views the Brecon Beacons are famous for, quieter paths than the main Pen y Fan tourist route, stunning mountain scenery, and a fascinating mix of geology and local history along the way.
The whole cwm beneath Pen y Fan was carved out by glaciers during the last Ice Age, leaving behind steep cliffs, hanging valleys and the dark, isolated lake sitting below Corn Du. Then there’s the haunting story of the Tommy Jones memorial, a stone obelisk standing high on the mountain remembering a young boy who became lost here in 1900 and sadly died from exposure after spending a night alone on the hill. It’s one of the most famous and emotional stories in Welsh mountain history, and walking past the memorial today still stops people in their tracks.
This route is a great mountain adventure without needing scrambling or technical terrain. Wide ridges, massive skies, a beautiful lake and one of the best descents in South Wales. Absolutely class walk.
Getting There: Directions, GPX and Map
- Start/Finish: Cwm Gwdi Car Park near Brecon — Google Maps pin.
- Parking: Small car park with limited spaces. Arrive early at weekends.
- Transport: No direct public transport to the start. Closest buses run into Brecon.
- GPX: Download the GPX file here.
- Route Finder: Follow this route on my Outdooractive profile.
Travel Data: I use eSIMs to stay connected — quick setup and no roaming faff when I’m heading further afield. Sim Local has been solid in Europe with good prices and coverage.
Hike Profile
- Distance: ~11 km (7 miles) circular
- Duration: 4–5 hours (plus extra time for dipping toes in the lake)
- Ascent/Descent: ~650–750 m
- Highest Point: Pen y Fan — 886 m
- Difficulty: Mountain paths, rocky sections, grassy ridges, steep descent near the lake
- Best for: Big views, mountain atmosphere, quieter Pen y Fan routes, glacial scenery, photography
Route Overview (Clockwise from Cwm Gwdi)
| Section | From → To | Path | Distance | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Cwm Gwdi → Ridge Climb | Grass/stone track | ~3 km | Steady climb with views opening quickly |
| 2 | Pen y Fan summit | Main summit path | 1 km | Busier section approaching the summit |
| 3 | Pen y Fan summit → Memorial | Main summit path | ~1 km | Rolling high ground beneath Corn Du |
| 4 | Memorial → Llyn Cwm Llwch | Steep descent path | 2 km | Fantastic glacial views down into the cwm |
| 5 | Llyn Cwm Llwch → Cwm Gwdi | Valley path/track | ~5 km | Peaceful lakeside walking and easy return |
Flying into Wales? Quick Skyscanner Checker
From Cardiff/Bristol it’s best to hire a car, Skyscanner found the cheapest flights, try the flight widget above.
Hike Description
This walk starts from the quieter side of the Brecon Beacons at Cwm Gwdi Car Park, it’s along a narrow lane, which in many places is just 1 car wide, so take your time once you join it. As soon as you mention Pen y Fan, you think hundreds of people, full car parks and the dirt path to the top, this is a totally different experience. Instead of the crowds and tourist paths, you begin on a broad military-style track with the hills rising ahead and barely any noise other than the wind and sheep somewhere in the distance.
The climb gradually pulls you higher onto one of the ridges heading towards Pen Y Fan, and from here the views behind you start to open up quickly looking towards Brecon and the rolling farmland of mid Wales. It’s a really satisfying ascent because it never feels brutally steep, just steady mountain walking with that constant sense of gaining space and height around you.
The route continues towards Pen y Fan, and to get there you’ll need to make your way up a short but steep rocky section. It’s manageable if you take your time and zig-zag your way up, but just be mindful of the loose rock underfoot. Once you reach the top, this is usually the busiest section of the day as paths merge near the summit, but the views more than make up for it. On a clear day you can see deep into mid Wales, across to the Black Mountains, and even towards Devon and the Bristol Channel.
From Pen y Fan, make your way towards Corn Du. The path then continues along the edge before dropping down over rougher ground, where you pick up the line heading towards the Tommy Jones Memorial.
This is the most emotional point on the route. The stone monument remembers 5-year-old Tommy Jones, who disappeared on the mountain in 1900 while walking with his father. Despite huge searches involving hundreds of local people, his body wasn’t found until nearly a month later below the cliffs. The story became famous across Britain at the time, and it still feels incredibly sad when you stand there in the middle of this huge landscape imagining the conditions.
Dropping down towards Llyn Cwm Llwch feels dramatic in the best possible way. The lake sits tucked beneath the cliffs of Corn Du and Pen y Fan, almost like something from the Highlands, especially when the cloud is hanging low over the water. It’s one of the most photogenic spots in the whole national park and somehow still feels quieter than many other Bannau Brycheiniog hotspots.
The descent is where this route really comes alive. Geologically, this whole area is fascinating. The steep bowl of Cwm Llwch below Pen y Fan was carved out during the last Ice Age by glaciers grinding their way through the old red sandstone. That’s why the landscape suddenly changes from rounded hills into dramatic escarpments and steep-sided cwms. You can really see it once you approach the edge above the lake.
The final section back through the valley is a lovely way to finish the day. The gradients ease off, the lake disappears behind you, and the big peaks slowly soften back into green hills and farmland. It’s one of those routes that gives you a proper feeling of journey from start to finish rather than simply “up and down a mountain”.
Honestly, one of the best loops in South Wales.
Places to Stay in Powys
For a wider choice of accommodation near the Bannau Brycheiniog, Booking.com has a huge variety to browse through.
Recommended Stays
This lovely, old stone building is at the foothills of the Black Mountains amid beautiful countryside and views of the Brecon Beacons. It has a restful feel, comfortable rooms and a free Wi-Fi zone.
The Castle Hotel in Talgarth is housed in a historic building, offering a unique and charming atmosphere.
AllTrails: Trail Guides & Maps for Hiking, Camping, and Running | AllTrails ‘Plus’ 30% OFF – Read my ‘Full Review‘ for more details.
Staying overnight? Check my guide to the Best Places To Stay in the Brecon Beacons
Practicalities
- Start early: The car park is small and fills quickly on weekends.
- Weather: Conditions can change rapidly on Pen y Fan even in summer.
- Footwear: Proper hiking boots or grippy trail shoes recommended.
- Navigation: Paths are mostly clear but cloud can make navigation difficult on the tops.
- Phone signal: Variable around the cwm and lower valley.
- Dogs: Fine for experienced mountain dogs, but steep sections near the lake require care.
- Photography: Sunrise and late afternoon light are brilliant here.
- Best season: Works year-round, but autumn and spring are especially good.
Cwm Llwch Horseshoe Circular FAQs
How long is the Cwm Llwch Horseshoe walk?
Is the route difficult?
Is this quieter than the main Pen y Fan route?
What is the Tommy Jones Memorial?
Can you swim in Llyn Cwm Llwch?
Is the route family friendly?
Is there scrambling?
What’s the best direction to walk it?
Are dogs allowed?
Is Pen y Fan included on this route?
Walk this route yourself in 3D!
The video is a 3D walkthrough of this route; it’ll give you a great idea of what to expect before you set foot on the mountain.
I’ve created 3D videos of my walks and shared them with the Outdooractive and Welsh Man Walking communities.
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