Region: Black Mountains, Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park, Wales
Places To Stay: Base yourself in Hay-on-Wye or Brecon for bookshops, pubs and easy access to the Bannau Brycheiniog, or stay in Talgarth if you want a short drive to the start (plus you’ve got cafés, history and Talgarth Mill at the finish). Looking for more Welsh walks? Head to my ‘Wales Hiking Guides‘ page to see all regions and routes.
Staying overnight? Check my guide to the Best Places To Stay in the Brecon Beacons
Below are a few ideas for day tours around the Brecon Beacons / Black Mountains area. GetYourGuide makes it easy to book + see more here.
For a bigger selection of Brecon Beacons accommodation, Booking.com has plenty of cottages, lodges and hotels to browse.
The Dragons Back as you can imagine is named because you have a collection of up and down mounds that resemble the back of a sleeping dragon, as you walk up to the ‘Waun Fach’ (Small Moor) peak. This peak is the highest mountain in the ‘Black Mountains’ and the second highest peak in Southern Britain at 811m, after Pen Y Fan, which isn’t too far away. This isn’t just another mountain in Wales though, it is steeped in history, has wild ponies, and I think the most spectacular views of any mountain in South Wales.
The history is pretty impressive, at 450 metres you will come across the highest castle in England and Wales, called ‘Castell Dinas Hill Fort’. It was built so it could defend the Rhiangoll pass, which is a river in the Brecon Beacons National Park and it rises on the western slopes of Waun Fach. There not much left of the castle unfortunately, just crumbling walls and the outlines of ditches and ramparts from the original Iron Age fortification.
Getting There: Directions, GPX and Map
- Start/Finish: This hike has a designated car park, and has pub right next to it called the Dinas Castle Inn’, which by the way is the highest pub in the Brecon Beacons! – Google Maps pin.
- GPX: Download the GPX file here.
- Route Finder: Follow this route on my Outdooractive profile.
Travel Data: I use eSIMs to stay connected — quick setup and no roaming faff when I’m heading further afield. Sim Local has been solid in Europe with good prices and coverage.
Hike Profile
- Distance: ~11 km (7 miles) circular
- Duration: 3–4 hours
- Ascent/Descent: ~811 m
- Difficulty: Diffiduclt – Straightforward paths with lots of long steep climbs.
- Terrain: Well-worn pathways all around, good walking shoes are a must.
Flying into Wales? Quick Skyscanner Checker
From Cardiff/Bristol it’s best to hire a car, Skyscanner found the cheapest flights, try the flight widget above.
Hike Description
The best place to start is the ‘Dragons Back’ car park, the postcode is LD3 0EP, and the village is called Pengenffordd. The car park is attached to the pub, and there is a charge which is paid at the box, check the instructions and I’m sure the owners of the pub will be more than happy to help.
I prefer to start the walk directly behind the car park, you will see a ditch to walk down to and then a stile that takes you straight into a field, and up to the remain of Dinas Castle.
In terms of directions there not much more to say other than keep on the track and head towards the peak in the distance along the Dragons Back, I guarantee you will want to stop and just look around and take it all in.
As you head towards the peak of Waun Fach you will see the terrain turn to more of a moorland, it can get very boggy after heavy rain, but the paths have recently been improved so you should be fine. Also please be aware the winds can really pick up, and that brings me nicely onto the video I have embedded below so you can see what I am talking about.
Before I get to where the video was shot you will reach the peak and start heading at an angle to start your descent back down, where you will pick those incredible views back up again, and possibly feel the full force of the wind as it makes it way through the Grwyne Fechan valley.
Click to view the video below, and be sure to have the volume on, and just listen and look at that wind coming through the valley, it caught us all by surprise, but really added to the adventure.
Make your way down to the next large cairn which will highlight where you make a very sharp right turn down into the Rhiangoll valley, onto a lane, passed Cwmforest farm and you are on you’re way back to the car park. Couple more pics below of the last stage of the walk.
You have a nice calm walk back through a working farm, with a few twists and turns as you make your way back to the car park. I always htink it’s a nice gesture to use the local pub or cafe, so we usually call in and have a little break before heading home.
Places to Stay in Hay-on-Wye & Talgarth
For a wider choice of accommodation near the Bannau Brycheiniog, Booking.com has a huge variety to browse through.
Recommended Stays
This lovely, old stone building is at the foothills of the Black Mountains amid beautiful countryside and views of the Brecon Beacons. It has a restful feel, comfortable rooms and a free Wi-Fi zone.
The Castle Hotel in Talgarth is housed in a historic building, offering a unique and charming atmosphere.
AllTrails: Trail Guides & Maps for Hiking, Camping, and Running | AllTrails ‘Plus’ 30% OFF – Read my ‘Full Review‘ for more details.
Staying overnight? Check my guide to the Best Places To Stay in the Brecon Beacons
Practicalities
- Season: All year — brilliant in autumn colours and after rain (when the waterfall is pumping). In winter, paths in the woods can be slippery.
- Footwear: Trail shoes are fine in dry weather; boots are better if it’s wet, especially around Pwll-y-Wrach.
- Water & food: Finish at Castle Dinas pub for a coffee. Use a Water-to-Go bottole.
- Parking: Pub car park — easy start/finish and no single-track stress.
- Dogs: Yes — great walk for dogs, but keep on a lead around livestock on the farmland sections.
- Good for: Spectacular views, history, a steady countryside loop, and anyone who loves finishing a walk with a pub.
Dragons Back Circular FAQs
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Walk this route yourself in 3D!
The video is a 3D walkthrough of this route; it’ll give you a great idea of what to expect before you set foot on the mountain.
I’ve created 3D videos of my walks and shared them with the Outdooractive and Welsh Man Walking communities.
Dragons Back & Waun Fach Circular – Pengenffordd, Black Mountains – 3D Video
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Absolutely stunning route! Completed this early this Morning and it’s absolutely spectacular! Thanks for the tips and the route, so much easier with a bit of insider information 👍🏻
Thanks Matt, I knew you’d enjoyed it, its one of the best I’d say, the views and just the general route and also the history around it makes it one of my favourites for sure. See you soon buddy