Kohechi Route, Kii Mountains from Kōyasan to Hongu, crossing 1,000m-class passes and dropping into remote river valleys – Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Trail, Japan

Region: Kohechi Route, Kumano Kodo — Kōyasan (Wakayama) to Kumano Hongu Taisha (Kii Peninsula), Japan

Places To Stay: The Kohechi is steeper, wilder, and more remote than Nakahechi, linking the mountaintop temples of Kōyasan with the grand shrine of Kumano Hongu Taisha. Expect classic shukubō (temple lodgings) at the start, family-run minshuku in tiny valleys, and soothing onsen stays around Totsukawa Onsen and Yunomine/Kawayu near the finish.

Looking for more trails in Japan? Visit my ‘Japan Hiking Trails‘ page.

Below are 3 ideas for trips, transfers and day tours on the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route, GetYourGuide offer great discounts and availability + Much more!

For a wider choice of accommodation in the Koyasan, Booking.com has a huge variety to browse through.

The Kohechi cuts straight through the heart of the Kii Mountains from Kōyasan to Hongu, crossing multiple 1,000m-class passes and dropping into remote river valleys. It’s shorter than Nakahechi (roughly 65–70 km) but typically feels tougher: steep ascents, equally steep descents, and long, quiet stretches between tiny settlements. This is the pilgrimage route for hikers who like solitude, big climbs, and the reward of onsen towns at day’s end. Recommended for experienced walkers.

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Nearest major airports: Kansai (Osaka) for Kōyasan access; Shirahama/Nanki or Osaka for Hongu area.

Getting There: Directions, GPX and App Link

• Start/Finish: Kōyasan (cable car + local bus) to Kumano Hongu Taisha (Hongu; buses to Yunomine/Kawayu/Wataze onsen areas).
• Seasonality: The Kohechi has high passes; it is generally closed mid-Dec to mid-Mar due to snow risk (southern Hatenashi-tōge may remain open). Check local advisories before you go.
• Download the GPX file here for GPS/watch use.
• You can follow this route on my Outdooractive profile.

Hike Profile

• Distance: ~65–70 km over the full Kohechi (Kōyasan → Hongu)
• Duration: Typical 4 days (3–5 possible depending on fitness/logistics)
• Highest passes: 1,000m+ class (e.g., Obako-tōge, Miura-tōge, Hatenashi-tōge)
• Difficulty: Challenging — steep ups/downs, long remote sections
• Terrain: Forest paths, ancient stone ways, narrow ridges, small hamlets

Stages & Distances (Typical 4-Day Itinerary)

Get a JR Rail Pass if you’re planning to move around a lot. You can buy 7–21 day passes before you go, and they give you ‘unlimited‘ rides on the bullet trains and most JR lines.

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Hike Description

The Kohechi Route is not for the faint-hearted. Linking the sacred mountaintop temples of Kōyasan with the Kumano shrines deep in the Kii Peninsula, it is a demanding path that climbs and descends through remote valleys and passes. Unlike the more travelled Nakahechi, the Kohechi is quieter, wilder, and often solitary. It’s a trail for those seeking a deeper immersion into Japan’s mountain landscapes and spiritual history.

The journey begins in Kōyasan, a mountaintop settlement founded by the monk Kūkai over 1,200 years ago. Pilgrims still arrive here along the Choishi-michi, but Kohechi walkers head south, passing through temple gates and stone markers before quickly plunging into the thick cedar forests that blanket the slopes. It’s worth lingering a night or two in Kōyasan beforehand, staying in a shukubō (temple lodging) and experiencing the morning prayers and shōjin ryōri vegetarian cuisine prepared by monks.

The first days are characterised by steep ascents and long descents as the trail climbs over mountain passes. Paths switchback through dense forest, often quiet except for the sound of birdsong and the occasional rustle of deer. Old stone statues and wayside shrines appear along the route, reminders that this was once a vital link between sacred sites. Weather here is changeable, and mist often rolls through the valleys, adding a sense of mystery to the walk.

Midway through the trail, walkers descend into Totsukawa, a remote mountain village known for its historic suspension bridge and restorative onsen. This is a place to pause, soak in the hot springs, and regain strength before tackling the next demanding stages. Staying in a local minshuku brings not only comfort but also the warmth of family hospitality — a hearty dinner of rice, mountain vegetables, and river fish will feel especially rewarding after the climbs.

Beyond Totsukawa, the Kohechi continues over high ridges and through isolated valleys where life moves at a much slower pace. Small hamlets, terraced rice fields, and shrines nestled in forests provide constant reminders of the deep connection between people, nature, and spirituality in this region. You’ll cross narrow ridgelines with sweeping views, descend into shaded valleys, and climb again into the clouds. This rhythm of up and down defines the Kohechi experience.

The final stretch leads towards Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of the three Grand Shrines of Kumano. Approaching Hongu feels momentous — after days of effort and solitude, the vast torii gate at Oyunohara marks the spiritual climax of the pilgrimage. From here, many walkers continue onwards to Yunomine Onsen or Kawayu Onsen for a well-earned soak in natural hot springs, just as pilgrims have done for centuries before paying their respects at the shrine.

More than just a tough mountain trek, the Kohechi is an encounter with Japan’s wild interior — a place where ancient faith and natural beauty intertwine. Every pass crossed and every shrine visited feels like a step deeper into the timeless spirit of the Kii Mountains.

Walk this route yourself in 3D!

The video is a 3D walkthrough of this route; it’ll give you a great idea of what to expect before you set foot on the mountain.

I’ve created 3D videos of my walks and shared them with the Outdooractive and Welsh Man Walking communities.

Kohechi Route, Kii Mountains from Kōyasan to Hongu – 3D Walkthrough

Places to Stay on the Kohechi (Temple Lodgings, Minshuku & Onsen Ryokan)

Book ahead — Kohechi villages are tiny and beds are limited. Note that Omata and Miura-guchi often require booking via the local reservation service (Kumano Travel). I’ve listed two options per stage where possible.

Stage 0 – Kōyasan (temple town)

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Eko-in Temple (Shukubō)

Historic temple stay with morning services and goma fire ritual; serene gardens and tatami rooms.

Check Availability

Sekishoin (Shukubō)

Classic temple lodging near Okunoin; vegetarian shōjin ryōri dinners and quiet rooms.

Check Availability

Stage 1 – Omata area

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Note: Lodging here is limited and often booked via Kumano Travel (local reservation system).

Stage 2 – Miura-guchi village

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Note: Similar to Omata, small minshuku listed via Kumano Travel.

Stage 3 – Totsukawa Onsen (hot-spring town)

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Hotel Subaru (Totsukawa Onsen)

Well-known onsen hotel beside the river; great for a deep soak after big Kohechi climbs.

Check Availability

Finish – Hongu area (Yunomine / Kawayu)

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Yunominesou (Yunomine Onsen)

Classic ryokan near historic Tsuboyu bath; kaiseki dinners and valley views.

Check Availability

Kawayu Onsen Fujiya

Stay riverside and (in winter) dig your own hot-spring bath in the riverbed — the classic Kawayu experience.

Check Availability

For a wider choice of accommodation in the Koyasan, Booking.com has a huge variety to browse through.

Practicalities

• Luggage: Kohechi luggage shuttle is available on some stages; pre-book.
• Food & water: Sparse between villages — carry extra snacks and top up whenever possible.
• Navigation: Waymarking exists, but expect long remote stretches; download offline maps.
• Weather: High passes = fast changes. Pack layers, rain gear, and a power bank.
• Safety: Reserve accommodation for every night before you set off; transport is limited.

Below are 3 ideas for trips and tours in Osaka, GetYourGuide offer great discounts and availability + Much more!

AllTrails: Trail Guides & Maps for Hiking, Camping, and Running | AllTrails Plans – Read my ‘Full Review‘ for more details.

Kohechi Route FAQs

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