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Region: Elan Valley, Powys, Mid Wales

Places to stay: Rhayader is the most convenient base for pubs, cafés and easy access to the valley. You can also browse accommodation in and around the Elan Valley. For more routes, visit my Wales hiking guides.

This 12.1-mile Elan Valley circular walk starts at Caban Coch and visits all four dams on the River Elan: Caban Coch, Garreg Ddu, Pen y Garreg and Craig Goch. The anticlockwise route follows the eastern side of the reservoirs to the top dam, crosses Craig Goch, and returns through quieter tracks and woodland on the western side before crossing Garreg Ddu.

It is not a steep or technically difficult walk, but its length should not be underestimated. We completed it in 5 hours 20 minutes, so I recommend allowing five to six hours. We walked it on a frosty Sunday morning when the reservoirs were almost perfectly still, producing some of the best reflections I have seen anywhere in Wales.

Elan Valley Four Dams Walk: Quick Facts

RouteCaban Coch, Garreg Ddu, Pen y Garreg and Craig Goch circular
Distance12.1 miles / 19.5 kilometres
Ascent587 feet / 179 metres
Recorded time5 hours 20 minutes
Time to allow5–6 hours
DirectionAnticlockwise
DifficultyModerate because of the distance; no steep sections
TerrainSurfaced paths, reservoir tracks, quiet road and woodland paths
Start and finishCaban Coch car park
FacilitiesVisitor centre café, toilets, shop and information desk
NavigationUse the GPX for the western return

Parking, Directions, GPX and Map

The GPX matches the route we walked. Navigation is straightforward on the eastern side, but the western return uses quieter tracks and woodland paths, so having the route downloaded is sensible.

Elan Valley Four Dams Route

StageRoute sectionWhat to expect
1Caban Coch to Garreg DduEasy reservoir-side walking on the Elan Valley Trail.
2Garreg Ddu to Pen y GarregContinue north on the eastern side beside Garreg Ddu Reservoir.
3Pen y Garreg to Craig GochFollow the trail to the highest dam in the Elan Valley chain.
4Cross Craig Goch DamCross the top dam and begin the western return.
5Craig Goch to Garreg DduQuiet road, tracks and woodland with gates and possible mud.
6Cross Garreg Ddu and return to Caban CochCross the submerged dam’s road bridge and rejoin the trail to the start.

1. Caban Coch to Garreg Ddu

From Caban Coch car park, join the Elan Valley Trail and begin walking north with the reservoirs on your left. Caban Coch is the lowest of the four dams on the River Elan and provides an impressive start to the day, although this circuit does not cross its dam wall.

Caban Coch Reservoir on the Elan Valley four dams walk
Reservoir-side trail between Caban Coch and Garreg Ddu

The surfaced trail makes for an easy start. At Garreg Ddu, the dam itself is submerged beneath the reservoir, while the masonry pillars above it carry the road bridge across the water. You pass the crossing on the outward leg and return to cross it later in the walk.

Garreg Ddu Dam and road bridge in the Elan Valley

2. Garreg Ddu to Pen y Garreg

Continue north beside Garreg Ddu Reservoir. This is a calm, scenic part of the route with long views across the water. On our frosty walk, the surface was so still that the opposite hills appeared almost perfectly reflected in it.

Winter reflections on Garreg Ddu Reservoir
Elan Valley Trail beside the reservoirs

The route then passes Pen y Garreg Dam. This is the third dam location on the circuit, but you remain on the eastern side rather than crossing it. Keep following the main trail north towards Craig Goch.

Walking towards Pen y Garreg and Craig Goch in the Elan Valley

3. Craig Goch Dam and the Western Return

Craig Goch is the highest upstream dam on the River Elan and is often called the “top dam”. Cross its curved stone wall to reach the western side of the valley. This is where the walk changes character: the return is quieter, more varied and less obviously waymarked than the outward trail.

Craig Goch Dam at the top of the Elan Valley route
Crossing Craig Goch Dam on the circular walk
Views from the western side of the Elan Valley reservoirs

After crossing the dam, follow the western return south. There is a short amount of quiet road walking, followed by tracks and woodland paths. The road section felt safe when we walked it, but remain aware of occasional vehicles. The woodland can become muddy after wet weather, and there are a couple of gates once you leave the road.

4. Garreg Ddu Crossing and Caban Coch

The return gradually brings you back to Garreg Ddu. Cross the road bridge above the submerged dam, rejoin the Elan Valley Trail and follow it south to Caban Coch car park. We then called at the nearby visitor centre for a well-earned coffee and cake.

Returning towards Garreg Ddu on the Elan Valley circular walk
Reservoir scenery on the Elan Valley four dams walk
Woodland section on the western return route
Garreg Ddu Reservoir in Mid Wales
Elan Valley reservoir reflections near Caban Coch

A Shorter Elan Valley Walk

You do not have to complete the full western circuit. The simplest shorter option is to remain on the eastern side, walk as far north as your time and fitness allow, and return along the same trail. For the best version of that alternative, continue to Craig Goch Dam before retracing your steps. It gives you the complete outward reservoir experience while avoiding the quieter western return.

Practical Information

  • Difficulty: The terrain is generally easy, but 12.1 miles requires a good level of fitness.
  • Footwear: Walking shoes or boots with reliable grip are sensible, especially when the woodland return is wet or muddy.
  • Weather: Check the forecast and carry suitable layers. Roads around the estate can be icy in winter.
  • Road section: There is a short stretch of quiet road after Craig Goch. It felt safe, but stay alert for traffic.
  • Dogs: Fit dogs can complete the route. Keep them under close control and follow estate signs around livestock.
  • Children and beginners: The paths are not technically difficult, but younger walkers and beginners must be capable of a long 12.1-mile day.
  • Facilities: Use the visitor centre near the start for toilets, refreshments, the shop and local information.
  • Access: Leave gates as you find them and check current estate notices before setting out.
Preview of the Elan Valley route in 3D

Preview the Elan Valley route in 3D

Watch my 3D walkthrough to understand the shape of the route before setting out.

Caban Coch, Garreg Ddu, Pen y Garreg and Craig Goch circular walk

Elan Valley Four Dams Walk FAQs

Disclosure: I may earn a commission if you book accommodation through links on this page, at no extra cost to you.

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