Region: Elan Valley, Powys, Mid Wales
Places to stay: Rhayader is the most convenient base for pubs, cafés and easy access to the valley. You can also browse accommodation in and around the Elan Valley. For more routes, visit my Wales hiking guides.
This 12.1-mile Elan Valley circular walk starts at Caban Coch and visits all four dams on the River Elan: Caban Coch, Garreg Ddu, Pen y Garreg and Craig Goch. The anticlockwise route follows the eastern side of the reservoirs to the top dam, crosses Craig Goch, and returns through quieter tracks and woodland on the western side before crossing Garreg Ddu.
It is not a steep or technically difficult walk, but its length should not be underestimated. We completed it in 5 hours 20 minutes, so I recommend allowing five to six hours. We walked it on a frosty Sunday morning when the reservoirs were almost perfectly still, producing some of the best reflections I have seen anywhere in Wales.
Elan Valley Four Dams Walk: Quick Facts
| Route | Caban Coch, Garreg Ddu, Pen y Garreg and Craig Goch circular |
|---|---|
| Distance | 12.1 miles / 19.5 kilometres |
| Ascent | 587 feet / 179 metres |
| Recorded time | 5 hours 20 minutes |
| Time to allow | 5–6 hours |
| Direction | Anticlockwise |
| Difficulty | Moderate because of the distance; no steep sections |
| Terrain | Surfaced paths, reservoir tracks, quiet road and woodland paths |
| Start and finish | Caban Coch car park |
| Facilities | Visitor centre café, toilets, shop and information desk |
| Navigation | Use the GPX for the western return |
Parking, Directions, GPX and Map
- Start and finish: Caban Coch car park.
- Parking: Parking was free when we walked the route in 2024, but check the signs when you arrive in case arrangements have changed.
- Visitor centre: The Elan Valley Visitor Centre is close to the start and is the best place for toilets, information, food and drinks. We stopped there for coffee and cake after the walk.
- GPX: Download the Elan Valley four dams GPX file.
- Interactive route: View the walk on my Outdooractive and Komoot profiles.
The GPX matches the route we walked. Navigation is straightforward on the eastern side, but the western return uses quieter tracks and woodland paths, so having the route downloaded is sensible.
Elan Valley Four Dams Route
| Stage | Route section | What to expect |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Caban Coch to Garreg Ddu | Easy reservoir-side walking on the Elan Valley Trail. |
| 2 | Garreg Ddu to Pen y Garreg | Continue north on the eastern side beside Garreg Ddu Reservoir. |
| 3 | Pen y Garreg to Craig Goch | Follow the trail to the highest dam in the Elan Valley chain. |
| 4 | Cross Craig Goch Dam | Cross the top dam and begin the western return. |
| 5 | Craig Goch to Garreg Ddu | Quiet road, tracks and woodland with gates and possible mud. |
| 6 | Cross Garreg Ddu and return to Caban Coch | Cross the submerged dam’s road bridge and rejoin the trail to the start. |
1. Caban Coch to Garreg Ddu
From Caban Coch car park, join the Elan Valley Trail and begin walking north with the reservoirs on your left. Caban Coch is the lowest of the four dams on the River Elan and provides an impressive start to the day, although this circuit does not cross its dam wall.


The surfaced trail makes for an easy start. At Garreg Ddu, the dam itself is submerged beneath the reservoir, while the masonry pillars above it carry the road bridge across the water. You pass the crossing on the outward leg and return to cross it later in the walk.

2. Garreg Ddu to Pen y Garreg
Continue north beside Garreg Ddu Reservoir. This is a calm, scenic part of the route with long views across the water. On our frosty walk, the surface was so still that the opposite hills appeared almost perfectly reflected in it.


The route then passes Pen y Garreg Dam. This is the third dam location on the circuit, but you remain on the eastern side rather than crossing it. Keep following the main trail north towards Craig Goch.

3. Craig Goch Dam and the Western Return
Craig Goch is the highest upstream dam on the River Elan and is often called the “top dam”. Cross its curved stone wall to reach the western side of the valley. This is where the walk changes character: the return is quieter, more varied and less obviously waymarked than the outward trail.



After crossing the dam, follow the western return south. There is a short amount of quiet road walking, followed by tracks and woodland paths. The road section felt safe when we walked it, but remain aware of occasional vehicles. The woodland can become muddy after wet weather, and there are a couple of gates once you leave the road.
4. Garreg Ddu Crossing and Caban Coch
The return gradually brings you back to Garreg Ddu. Cross the road bridge above the submerged dam, rejoin the Elan Valley Trail and follow it south to Caban Coch car park. We then called at the nearby visitor centre for a well-earned coffee and cake.





A Shorter Elan Valley Walk
You do not have to complete the full western circuit. The simplest shorter option is to remain on the eastern side, walk as far north as your time and fitness allow, and return along the same trail. For the best version of that alternative, continue to Craig Goch Dam before retracing your steps. It gives you the complete outward reservoir experience while avoiding the quieter western return.
Practical Information
- Difficulty: The terrain is generally easy, but 12.1 miles requires a good level of fitness.
- Footwear: Walking shoes or boots with reliable grip are sensible, especially when the woodland return is wet or muddy.
- Weather: Check the forecast and carry suitable layers. Roads around the estate can be icy in winter.
- Road section: There is a short stretch of quiet road after Craig Goch. It felt safe, but stay alert for traffic.
- Dogs: Fit dogs can complete the route. Keep them under close control and follow estate signs around livestock.
- Children and beginners: The paths are not technically difficult, but younger walkers and beginners must be capable of a long 12.1-mile day.
- Facilities: Use the visitor centre near the start for toilets, refreshments, the shop and local information.
- Access: Leave gates as you find them and check current estate notices before setting out.
Preview the Elan Valley route in 3D
Watch my 3D walkthrough to understand the shape of the route before setting out.
Caban Coch, Garreg Ddu, Pen y Garreg and Craig Goch circular walk
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