Region: South Wales — Black Mountains, Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park, Wales
Places To Stay: Base yourself in Hay-on-Wye for bookshops, pubs and easy access to the Black Mountains, or stay in Talgarth if you want to start this walk right from the town centre (plus you’ve got cafés, history and Talgarth Mill at the finish). Looking for more Welsh walks? Head to my ‘Wales Hiking Guides‘ page to see all regions and routes.
Below are a few ideas for day tours around the Brecon Beacons / Black Mountains area. GetYourGuide makes it easy to book + see more here.
For a bigger selection of Brecon Beacons accommodation, Booking.com has plenty of cottages, lodges and hotels to browse.
This 7-mile circular starts in the town of Talgarth and managed to feel like a proper little adventure without ever being a big “mountain day”. You head out of town to Pwll-y-Wrach, a woodland waterfall wrapped in folklore and local history, then climb steadily up onto quieter lanes and open farmland with the Black Mountains and Y Grib sitting proudly above. From Rhos Fach you loop back past the eerie, crumbling remains of an old hospital and St Gwenddine’s, before finishing in the best possible way: a coffee at Talgarth Mill, another place absolutely packed with history.
Getting There: Directions, GPX and Map
- Start/Finish: Talgarth town car park (use this as your start point) — Google Maps pin.
- Transport: Talgarth is reachable by bus from Brecon / Hay-on-Wye area, but services are limited — easiest option is driving and parking in town.
- GPX: Download the GPX file here.
- Route Finder: Follow this route on my Outdooractive profile.
Travel Data: I use eSIMs to stay connected — quick setup and no roaming faff when I’m heading further afield. Sim Local has been solid in Europe with good prices and coverage.
Hike Profile
- Distance: ~11 km (7 miles) circular
- Duration: 3–4 hours (plus extra time for photos + Talgarth Mill)
- Ascent/Descent: ~230 m (steady climb out of the valley, nothing savage)
- Highest Point: Open farmland / moor edge below the Black Mountains (near views towards Y Grib)
- Difficulty: Easy/Moderate – mostly straightforward paths and lanes with a couple of steady climbs.
- Terrain: Town paths, woodland trails, lanes, farmland tracks, and a couple of potentially muddy bits in the woods.
Route Overview (Clockwise from Talgarth)
| Section | From → To | Path | Distance | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Talgarth car park → Pwll-y-Wrach Nature Reserve | Town paths / lanes | 2–3 km | Easy warm-up out of town before the woods close in. |
| 2 | Pwll-y-Wrach → waterfall viewpoint loop | Woodland trails | 1 km | Short, steep-ish woodland paths in places; take your time and enjoy it. |
| 3 | Pwll-y-Wrach → lanes below the Black Mountains / views to Y Grib | Lane climb | 2–3 km | Steady uphill on quiet lanes to more open countryside. |
| 4 | Open farmland → Rhos Fach | Field paths / tracks | 2 km | Wide skies, peaceful fields, and that proper “Breconshire” feel. |
| 5 | Rhos Fach → St Gwenddine’s Hospital → Talgarth Mill → car park | Tracks / lanes / town paths | 2–3 km | Eerie old ruins, then a perfect finish at the mill café. |
Flying into Wales? Quick Skyscanner Checker
From Cardiff/Bristol it’s best to hire a car, Skyscanner found the cheapest flights, try the flight widget above.
Hike Description
This one starts right in Talgarth, which I love, as there then no need with remote parking spots. You’re in a proper little market town with a big backdrop, and within minutes of leaving the car park you can feel the place shifting from “shops and streets” to “woods and water”. It’s a brilliant route if you want something scenic but still quite relaxed.
The first big highlight is Pwll-y-Wrach Nature Reserve. The name roughly translates as “Pool of the Witch”. The paths drop into this shady, mossy gorge, the air gets cooler, and you can hear the water long before you see it. You can hear the waterfall from a distance as it tumbes over rock into a deep pool, and it’s one of those places that feels like it’s got stories baked into it. Local folklore and old tales are part of the charm here, and even if you don’t know the details, you can feel why people have always talked about this spot.
From the waterfall you climb out via a quiet lane and suddenly the whole walk opens up. The woods fall away behind you and you’re into open countryside, with the lower slopes of the Black Mountains ahead and that distinct peak of Y Grib sitting up there like a marker on the skyline. The gradient is steady so you can chat and take pics and the views get better with every bit of height you gain.
As you reach the flatter area below the mountains you get that lovely change of atmosphere: wide fields, hedgerows, quiet tracks and big skies. It feels peaceful up here, and you’ve got that constant sense of the hills looming just beyond, like you’re walking along the edge of the real uplands without committing to a full-on ridge day.
From Rhos Fach the route turns back towards town and throws in a couple of proper “didn’t expect that!” moments. Passing the remains of a very old, dilapidated hospital gives the return leg an eerie. Not far after, you go past St Gwenddine’s, a name that’s been tied to healing and care in this area for centuries. It’s a reminder that Talgarth isn’t just a pretty town at the foot of the hills, it’s got layers to it.
And then comes the perfect finish: Talgarth Mill. This place has serious history — a restored watermill that’s become one of the town’s best stops — and rolling in here after a few hours on the trail just feels right. Coffee, cake, a quick wander, and that smug feeling that you’ve had a proper little adventure without ever needing to go high or far. Class day out.
Places to Stay in Hay-on-Wye & Talgarth
For a wider choice of accommodation near the Bannau Brycheiniog, Booking.com has a huge variety to browse through.
Recommended Stays
This lovely, old stone building is at the foothills of the Black Mountains amid beautiful countryside and views of the Brecon Beacons. It has a restful feel, comfortable rooms and a free Wi-Fi zone.
The Castle Hotel in Talgarth is housed in a historic building, offering a unique and charming atmosphere.
AllTrails: Trail Guides & Maps for Hiking, Camping, and Running | AllTrails ‘Plus’ 30% OFF – Read my ‘Full Review‘ for more details.
Practicalities
- Season: All year — brilliant in autumn colours and after rain (when the waterfall is pumping). In winter, paths in the woods can be slippery.
- Footwear: Trail shoes are fine in dry weather; boots are better if it’s wet, especially around Pwll-y-Wrach.
- Water & food: Plenty in Talgarth. Finish at Talgarth Mill for a coffee. Use a Water-to-Go bottole.
- Parking: Town car parks in Talgarth — easy start/finish and no single-track stress.
- Dogs: Yes — great walk for dogs, but keep on a lead around livestock on the farmland sections.
- Good for: Waterfalls, history, a steady countryside loop, and anyone who loves finishing a walk with a proper café stop.
Talgarth, Pwll-y-Wrach Circular FAQs
How long is the walk?
Is it hard?
Which way round is best?
Is navigation straightforward?
What’s special about Pwll-y-Wrach waterfall?
Can I shorten the walk?
Is it family friendly?
What about boggy / muddy bits?
Is it good in winter?
Walk this route yourself in 3D!
The video is a 3D walkthrough of this route; it’ll give you a great idea of what to expect before you set foot on the mountain.
I’ve created 3D videos of my walks and shared them with the Outdooractive and Welsh Man Walking communities.
Talgarth, Pwll-y-Wrach & Talgarth Mill Circular – 3D Walkthrough
Water-to-Go Named Best Water Bottle for Travel. Click www.watertogo.eu + 20% Discount Using – ‘WMW20’
Disclosure: I may earn a commission if you buy via the links on this page — at no extra cost to you.