It’s not technical, but the descent into the valley and the long steep climb back up make it feel like a solid day.

What about boggy or muddy sections?

Some sections, especially in the valley and along the tops after rain, can be wet and boggy – good boots make a big difference.

It’s not technical, but the descent into the valley and the long steep climb back up make it feel like a solid day.

What about boggy or muddy sections?

Some sections, especially in the valley and along the tops after rain, can be wet and boggy – good boots make a big difference.

Twmpa (Lord Hereford’s Knob), Capel-y-ffin & Hay Bluff Circular Walk

Q: How long is the walk?

Roughly 16 km / 10 miles, which we walked in about 4.5 hours with a couple of short stops.

Q: Which way round is best?

Clockwise from Gospel Pass works well – you get Twmpa done early, drop into the valley, then tackle the big climb in the middle of the day.

Q: Is navigation straightforward?

The ridge sections are obvious, but paths in the Nant Bwch valley and around farmland can be vague – a map or GPX is strongly recommended.

Q: What’s special about Capel-y-ffin church?

It’s a tiny 18th-century chapel built on a much older site – one of the smallest churches in Wales, tucked right under the Black Mountains.

Q: What is Offa’s Dyke Path?

A long-distance trail following the line of an 8th-century earthwork built under King Offa of Mercia, roughly marking the old England–Wales border.

Q: Can I shorten the walk?

You could make an out-and-back to Twmpa or Hay Bluff from Gospel Pass, but the full loop via Capel-y-ffin is what makes it special.

Q: Is it family friendly?

Only for older, hill-walking teens – the distance and steep valley climb will be too much for younger children.

Q: Is it good in winter?

Yes, but treat it as a proper hill day – strong winds, snow or ice can make the ridges serious. Check the forecast and daylight before you go.

Region: South Wales — Black Mountains, Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park, Wales

Places To Stay: Base yourself in Hay-on-Wye for bookshops, pubs and easy access to Gospel Pass, or stay in Talgarth if you want a quieter base on the southern side of the range. Looking for more Welsh walks? Head to my ‘Wales Hiking Guides‘ page to see all regions and routes.

Below are a few ideas for day tours around the Brecon Beacons / Black Mountains area. GetYourGuide makes it easy to book + see more here.

Find Places to Stay

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For a bigger selection of Brecon Beacons accommodation, Booking.com has plenty of cottages, lodges and hotels to browse.

This 10-mile circular from Gospel Pass strings together some of the best bits of the Black Mountains in one hit. You start high on Wales’ highest road pass, climb up to Twmpa (Lord Hereford’s Knob), then drop into a wild, glaciated-feeling valley where the Nant Bwch stream runs away below you. From there you wander right down to the tiny Church of St Mary the Virgin in Capel-y-ffin, before a steep zig-zag haul puts you back on the tops at Black Mountain South Top. The final stretch along the Offa’s Dyke Path over Twyn Llech to Hay Bluff is classic border-country walking, big views, big skies, and that feeling of standing right on the edge of Wales.

Getting There: Directions, GPX and Map

Start/Finish: Small roadside parking area just south of Gospel Pass on the Hay-on-Wye → Llanthony road (often marked as “Gospel Pass car park” on maps).
Transport: No public transport to Gospel Pass. Buses run to Hay-on-Wye; from there you’ll need a lift/taxi up to the pass or to start lower and make a longer day of it.
GPX: Download the GPX file here.
Route Finder: Follow this route on my Outdooractive profile.

Travel Data: I use eSIMs to stay connected — quick setup and no roaming faff when I’m heading further afield. Sim Local has been solid in Europe with good prices and coverage.

Hike Profile

Distance: ~16 km (10 miles) circular
Duration: 4–5 hours
Ascent/Descent: ~700 m
Highest Point: Twmpa (Lord Hereford’s Knob) – 690 m
Difficulty: Moderate/Challenging – a couple of steep descents and a long, steep climb back to the tops.
Terrain: Open moorland paths, rough sheep tracks, steep grassy slopes, farmland tracks, and well-trodden ridge paths on Offa’s Dyke.

Route Overview (Clockwise from Gospel Pass)

Section	From → To	Path	Distance	Notes
1	Gospel Pass parking → Twmpa (Lord Hereford’s Knob)	Grassy ridge path (Cambrian Way)	2–3 km	Start high and climb gently onto the broad ridge with early views over the Wye Valley and the Vale of Ewyas.
2	Twmpa → Valley floor above Capel-y-ffin	Sheep trods / rough descent	2–3 km	Turn off the ridge and drop into a rugged side valley, following the line of the Nant Bwch stream.
3	Valley floor → Church of St Mary the Virgin, Capel-y-ffin	Valley path / lane	2 km	Follow the valley out to tiny Capel-y-ffin and its historic church tucked into the hillside.
4	Capel-y-ffin → Black Mountain South Top	Field paths / steep zig-zag climb	3–4 km	Cut through farmland, then tackle a long, steep zig-zag path back up onto the main Black Mountains ridge.
5	Black Mountain South Top → Twyn Llech → Hay Bluff → Gospel Pass	Offa’s Dyke Path / ridge path	4–5 km	Superb ridge walking with wide-open views before dropping gently back to Gospel Pass and the car.

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Hike Description

You start high, which always feels like cheating in the best way. From the little parking area near Gospel Pass you’re already up around the 500 m mark, with the road snaking away below. Gospel Pass itself is often described as the highest public road in Wales, and you can see why it’s famous, it’s a proper classic bit of upland scenery with big views either side of the ridge.

Pick up the clear path heading north towards Twmpa (also known, brilliantly, as Lord Hereford’s Knob). The climb isn’t huge but it wakes the legs up quickly, and as you gain the broad summit plateau the views just keep opening out: Hay Bluff and the rest of the Hatterrall ridge one way, the Wye Valley and mid Wales rolling away the other. On a clear day you really get that “top of the world” feeling.

After a short stretch on the ridge you peel off left and start dropping into the side valley carved by the Nant Bwch. This bit feels completely different, suddenly you’re in this quiet, steep-sided valley with rough, sometimes faint paths, sheep scattered across the slopes and the stream chattering away below. It’s properly rugged and feels a long way from the road, even though you weren’t that far away an hour ago.

The valley gradually eases and you follow paths and lanes down into Capel-y-ffin, a tiny hamlet whose name literally means “chapel on the border”. Tucked just above the road is the Church of St Mary the Virgin, a small 18th-century chapel built on the site of a much older medieval one. It’s one of the smallest churches in Wales – low, whitewashed and slightly crooked, with leaning gravestones outside and views straight up to the Black Mountains. It’s well worth a short wander around; you really feel the history of this border valley.

From Capel-y-ffin you cut across farmland and pick up a steep, zig-zagging path that hauls you all the way back up onto the main ridge. This is the sting in the tail: a proper calf-burner that gains height quickly, but the payoff is huge. As you reach Black Mountain South Top the views explode again – the long line of the Hatterrall ridge, the Vale of Ewyas dropping away behind, and the higher, rockier bulk of Hay Bluff ahead.

Turn left onto the Offa’s Dyke Path, following the line of the old earthwork that once marked the boundary of King Offa’s Mercia, and enjoy some of the best easy ridge walking in the park. You cross over Twyn Llech and make the short extra push to the trig point on Hay Bluff, which is absolutely worth the detour – the view over Hay-on-Wye, the Wye Valley and deep into England is superb.

From Hay Bluff it’s a gentle, familiar-feeling descent back towards Gospel Pass, with the road gradually creeping back into view. On a good day it’s the kind of loop that feels like it’s had a bit of everything: quiet history down in Capel-y-ffin, rough and ready valleys, airy ridge walking, and two of the most distinctive summits in the Black Mountains in one go.

Places to Stay in Hay-on-Wye & Talgarth

For a wider choice of accommodation near Gospel Pass, Booking.com has a huge variety to browse through.

Recommended Stays

Black Mountain Lodge

This lovely, old stone building is at the foothills of the Black Mountains amid beautiful countryside and views of the Brecon Beacons. It has a restful feel, comfortable rooms and a free Wi-Fi zone.

Check availability

The Castle Hotel

The Castle Hotel in Talgarth is housed in a historic building, offering a unique and charming atmosphere.

Check availability

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Practicalities

Season: All year, but the tops are very exposed – expect strong winds and winter conditions when it’s cold.
Footwear: Proper walking boots or grippy trail shoes – it can be wet, muddy and steep in places.
Water & food: Nothing on the route itself; stock up in Hay-on-Wye or Talgarth. Use a Water-to-Go bottole.
Parking: Free roadside parking near Gospel Pass – can be busy on sunny weekends.
Dogs: Yes, but keep on a lead around livestock and on the farmland sections near Capel-y-ffin.
Good for: Big views, border history, long ridge days, and anyone who likes a mix of wild open tops and tucked-away valleys.