Region: Mid Wales — Elan Valley, Powys, Wales
Places To Stay: Stay in Rhayader for pubs, cafés and quick access to the whole valley. If you want something quieter and closer to the dams, Elan Valley has so many options.
Looking for more Welsh walks? Head to my ‘Wales Hiking Guides‘ page to see all regions and routes.
Below are a few ideas for day tours around Mid Wales, including the Elan Valley dams and reservoirs. GetYourGuide makes it easy to book + see more here.
For a bigger selection of Mid Wales accommodation, Booking.com has plenty of cottages, lodges and hotels to browse.
This circular walk starts close to the Elan Valley Visitor Centre in the Caban Coch car park and is a great way to explore three of the estate’s most iconic dams. Starting next to the Caban Coch Dam you follow the Elan Valley Trail to the Garreg Ddu Dam alongside the still, mirror-like waters of Garreg-ddu Reservoir to Pen y Garreg Dam and continue to the impressive Craig Goch Dam. You then loop back on the west side of the valley back towards Garreg Ddu. We walked it on a frosty Sunday morning and honestly couldn’t get over the reflections, the hills, the colours, the calmness. Absolutely stunning, a very relaxed easy-going day out.
Getting There: Directions, GPX and Map
- Start/Finish: Caban Coch car park → Garreg ddu Dam → Pen y Garreg → Craig Goch → Return to Caban Coch via Garreg Ddu. Option to get a coffee and cake at the Elan Valley Visitor Centre.
- Transport: Parking at the Visitor Centre and Caban Coch car parks; buses run to Rhayader only (you’ll need a lift/taxi into the valley).
- Download the GPX file here.
- Follow this route on my Outdooractive profile.
Travel Data: I use eSIMs to stay connected — quick setup and no roaming faff. Sim Local has been solid in Italy/Europe with good prices and coverage.
Hike Profile
- Distance: 19 km (around 12 miles)
- Duration: 5-6 hours
- Ascent/Descent: ~180 m
- Highest Point: Near Craig Goch Dam (~330 m)
- Difficulty: Moderate/Difficult due to distance — wide paths, gentle gradients
- Terrain: Reservoir-side paths, woodland trail, tarmac sections, dam crossings
Route Overview (Clockwise Loop)
| Section | From → To | Surface | Distance | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Caban Coch / Visitor Centre → Garreg Ddu Dam | Elan Valley Trail | 1.6 km | Easy start along the water with cracking reflections. |
| 2 | Garreg Ddu Dam → Pen y Garreg Dam | Lakeside track | 4 km | Steady walk to the middle dam. |
| 3 | Pen y Garreg Dam → Craig Goch Dam | Lakeside track | 3 km | Steady walk to the “top dam” of the valley |
| 3 | Craig Goch Dam → Garreg Ddu | Quiet lane / woodland track | 8 km | West-side return with open views down the valley. |
| 4 | Garreg Ddu → Visitor Centre | Elan Valley Trail | 1.5 km | Back via the bridge and across the dam. |
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Hike Description
Starting from either the Visitor Centre or the Caban Coch car park, you can join the Elan Valley Trail on the right side of the reservoirs. The path follows the water first alongside Caban-Coch Reservoir to Garreg Ddu Dam, and then you continue on the trail all the way along Garreg-Ddu Reservoir.
Garreg Ddu Dam in the lower Elan Valley serves a dual role. It is a low, completely submerged dam which plays a vital role in maintaining a constant supply of water to Birmingham. It also supports masonry pillars carrying the access roadway to the neighbouring valley of the River Claerwen. Garreg Ddu holds water back on the upstream side so that water can always be extracted at the Foel Tower.
On a still morning it’s unreal — the hills opposite reflect so cleanly in the water it looks like someone’s dropped a mirror into the valley. Frost on the grass, quiet trails, and barely a sound… proper peaceful stuff.
Keep heading north until the stone arches of Craig Goch Dam appear. It’s known as the “top dam” of the estate and has that classic curved wall design. After crossing it, swing left and begin the return leg along the quieter west side of the valley.
This section feels different — more open views and a real sense of space. You get lovely looks back across the reservoir too. The trail gradually drops towards Garreg Ddu Dam, with its distinctive submerged arches. Cross over, rejoin the Elan Valley Trail and follow it straight back to the visitor centre.
It’s a really simple loop but it packs in loads of variety: big dams, peaceful woodland, wide valley scenery, and some of the best reflections you’ll see anywhere in Wales.
Places to Stay in Rhayader
For a wider choice of accommodation in the Rhayader, Booking.com has a huge variety to browse through.
Recommended Stays
The Old Vicarage Dolfor in Newtown offers a 5-star guest house experience within a historic building. Guests enjoy garden and mountain views, complemented by free WiFi throughout the property.
The Lake Country House Hotel & Spa
Set in 50-acre grounds The Lake Country House Hotel & Spa lies in the heart of the Welsh countryside. With en suite bathrooms it also boasts a swimming pool and sauna.
AllTrails: Trail Guides & Maps for Hiking, Camping, and Running | AllTrails ‘Plus’ 30% OFF – Read my ‘Full Review‘ for more details.
Practicalities
- Season: All year. Stunning in winter frost or autumn colours.
- Footwear: Any comfy walking shoes; the paths are easy-going.
- Water & food: Visitor Centre café at the start/end.
- Parking: Pay-and-display at the visitor centre or Caban Coch.
- Dogs: Yes, but keep on a lead around livestock and dam areas.
- Good for: Families, photographers, relaxed days out, short winter walks.
Elan Valley Circular FAQs
How long is the walk?
This one is bbout 12 miles, but at any point you can turn back and not cross over to complete the full circule.
Is it easy?
Yes — it’s easy because of wide paths and gentle gradients, but this circular is long and in the winter you may find difficult areas on the return particularly through the wooded areas.
Can you bring dogs?
Yes, but keep on a lead around livestock and dams.
Is it family friendly?
Very — suitable for most ages.
Best viewpoint?
The reflection spots along Pen y Garreg Reservoir.
Where do I park?
Elan Valley Visitor Centre or the Caban Coch Car Park
Any steep bits?
No — mostly flat.
Can I cycle it?
Yes — much of the loop follows the cycle-friendly Elan Valley Trail, an alternative to the wooded area you can follow the main road back instead.
Are there toilets?
At the visitor centre and if open at the Craig Goch dam.
Is it good in winter?
Yes — frosty mornings give the best reflections. But maybe when wet there could be muddy sections when returning through the wooded area.
Walk this route yourself in 3D!
The video is a 3D walkthrough of this route; it’ll give you a great idea of what to expect before you set foot on the mountain.
I’ve created 3D videos of my walks and shared them with the Outdooractive and Welsh Man Walking communities.
Caban Coch, Garreg Ddu, Pen Y Garreg & Craig Goch Reservoirs & Dams Circular Walk – 3D Walkthrough
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